The 50 should be among the easiest to get right because the optical path is among the simplest. I'm only saying that because the guys on the photography forums use these charts to compare numbers with other lenses they all refer to that page as the 'source'. You have a wide range of lenses to pick from and equally different price tags. This makes life easier when grabbing gear to go out and renting it as well. They are made in Spain, cost about 60 euros each and you install them on the back of the lenses using the provided screws. You can use the code CINE at check out for a nifty discount! They also look more modern and clean. Its not. or Sign Up Log in with Search in titles onlySearch in Lens Tests only Search Advanced Search Forums Groups New Posts Today's Posts Member List Forum Shooting RED This is an endeavor Ive been working on and off for the last two years and now I can see the finish line. You can unsubscribe at any time via an unsubscribe link included in every newsletter. This gave me a great set of lenses ready for action, all I missed was a way of getting them to said action. Its regarded as one of the best 21mm ever made, and to this day they still use the same formula for the 21mm f/2.8 ZF/ZE primes. The Zeiss ZF is phenomenally sharp and modern, which I found good for general and macro photography but I found unpleasant of for portraiture. And. By giving you that extra latitude in the blacks and highlights, they were letting photographers dial in how much black and contrast they wanted later in the dark roomwhen they were printing. This means that not all MM lenses are made in Japan. If you do have a printer, I made a tutorial on how to make focus gears! Leica has announced a mono-only version of its M11 60MP manual focus rangefinder. Its awesome Western Zeiss glass. I met amazing businesses with folks that really know how to deal with their customers, I did try out mindblowing glass and I was humbled by all the feedback I got when asking questions about what would be my best options in the middle of the process and posting updates of what I was working on. I personally own the 35mm and the 50mm. But dont expect them to have the even performance of a set of Ultraprimes or Masterprimes (where many of the primes are not only similar in size and weight, but also perform similarly at matching T stops!). Sometimes you have to go with what you can get your hands on. ----------------------------------------------------------. Heres a very interesting article by Edward T. that summarizes tech papers published on these designs and their differences, pros and cons. To check if I did it, just follow me on Instagram as I post all my lens experiments there! In this buying guide we've rounded up all the current interchangeable lens cameras costing around $2000 and recommended the best. The 135 mm 2.8 MD lens can keep up with the big boys, some say it is one of the best tele lens of all time. These are creative tools, use them as such. ONLY "RTS". Only correction I did to this photograph was to increase RAW color temperature, that's it. Standard lens, cant really make a set without a 35mm in it, right? Standard lens, cant really make a set without a 35mm in it, right? Domenic, you are selling your 100 Macro 2.8 right? Theyre killer tools for video, but in order to achieve maximum performance, theres a number of steps and procedures to tackle. I won't bore you with the history lesson, but Pentax worked with Zeiss when the Contax series was developed and they came out with a suspiciously similar multi-coated lens at the same time. You have to admit they look sexy. Zeiss Ikon was also split apart into Eastern and Western divisions, but these two subsidiaries kept working togetherand Contax rangefinder cameras and lenses continued to be made on both sides of the wall. I repeated the technique for the rear caps, this time with only the focal length written on them. You can spot an MM if the last number on your aperture ring is. Sonnar originally meant "Sunny", because historically these used to be the bright, fast designs when they first came out. So far, I had no previous love for Contax and a little bit of prejudice against Zeiss for making lenses too clean. Its the one I always took with me and it gave me gorgeous shots. The last decision I had to make was between the 18mm f/4 and the 15mm f/3.5. I'm liking my 28:2.8 AE. thanks for the info! To check if I did it, just follow me on Instagram as I post all my lens experiments there! The lenses were made in two generations. In fact, they MOD better than ZF/ZEs believe it or not. The 15mm is a gorgeous rectilinear super wide angle, it shares the same optical formula as the Leica Super-Elmar 15mm f/3.5, with different coatings. My custom made front caps with focal length, f-stop and minimum focus distance. The first one is AE and the second one is MM. I like to add 0.3mm to the measurement to give me a little wiggle room after printing. The Carl Zeiss Distagon 2.8/28 T* enjoys a very good reputation and it is a bit more expensive at around 250. Wide open, the 35 1.4 and 85 1.4 are fine (circular bokeh). If I know Im not gonna need either the 15 and the 60, I just dont take their case with me. So I sand the inside down a bit and try again. That's where my obsession started. He's obsessed with the technical aspects of his projects and how each piece of glass in front of the sensor will affect the final look. Lets go back to the 70s. Im sure that approach had similar benefits with cinema lenses and Hasselblads. One last note on their generations, MMs were mostly made in Japan, so theyre called MMJs, while AEs were made in Germany and named AEGs. Take or leave it. Are usually 3.5 and F4. All times are GMT-8. Landmine Media, LLC. Im from Bangladesh. Your 50/1.7 is an AE lens, based on it's serial number and lack of green last numbersince made in Japan, it is an AEJ. 80mm is the outside diameter of the rings, and that number is so specific because its a standard size for clip-on matteboxes. Its also a big change in size and weight, almost doubling its predecessor. That was rad :). Its also a big change in size and weight, almost doubling its predecessor. When the ZF/ZEs first came out in 2006, they appear to have been direct re-badges of the Contax line (with small modifications to the designs). Im one of the blowhards (haha) that has routinely made this claim that Contax glass shares a lot of the same pedigree as its medium format and cinema cousins.Standards, Supers and Hasselblads, respectively. C) They have the older Zeiss T* coating that we also find on Hasselblads, Super Speeds and Standardsand as such have a more organic rendering on digital than ZF/ZE/CP2s. I prefer the FOV of a 25, but for the budget.the 28mm is amazing. adapters work fine ($15) (They are conservative and tend to overcompensate by a millimeter or two, so they can make your glass focus past infinity at the tail end, a bit annoying but nothing terrible). The main difference being that a normal human can afford Contax Zeiss but not Leicas. It had five lenses: 28/2.8, 35/2.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.4 and 135/2.8. The process turned out alright and the gears worked great, but later on I learned some useful tricks. Focal length marked on the rear caps as well. But it's a lens meant for stills and cheap as hell compared to cine glass. Proof of this is that arguably their most famous lensthe 21was ONLY made in Japan. If you are not great at DIY, make sure to check out our sponsors SimmodLens and FollowFocusGears.com for pretty much all the mods mentioned in the article above. Is the Distagon 21mm the same glass as they use in the Compact Primes? It was a time when I didnt shoot much, but I went on long bike rides. 80mm diameter Cine rings by SIMMOD Lens and 77mm filter threads. You can tell them apart because MM have their last aperture number painted green, and they have a small tab on the mount that doesnt exist on AEs. The rubber grip on the focus ring of the lenses is awesome because it prevents the gears from sliding, but its also a pain because it makes the fitting a lot harder. Theyre much cheaper than modern lenses, yet share similar designs and performance. After aperture was made smooth and clickless I still had my 3d printer hanging around, so I printed aperture gears as well. Theres a lot of discussion whether the 135mm f/2.0 has a clear advantage over the f/2.8, especially when you take into account the price difference. Enjoy! Micro contrast and color reproduction is fantastic as well. Its agreed that MM lenses perform better and have cleaner results than AE lenses, theyre also less prone to flaring. Here are some things I got from it: Contax Zeiss lenses were designed for 35mm full frame, which means theyll cover all the way up to Vistavision sensors on modern cameras and anything smaller. The wides are slow. They are made in Spain, cost about 60 euros each and you install them on the back of the lenses using the provided screws. Landmine Media, LLC. My attempt to be as thorough as possible! Its by no means unusable, but dont expect a Contax at F2 to perform like an Ultraprime. You know, like a cine lens! The 21/2.8 was a must. Next came the 60mm f/2.8 Macro. 06-22-2022, 04:47 PM Hey, everybody, I know we have the awesome Contax Zeiss Survival Guide but looking at building a set of Zeiss lenses myself from bargain finds and fixer uppers I've collected, I wondered what anybody's experiences might have been with mixing Zeiss lineups together? So I kept using an adapter on that one (the best adapter I had). Also because Soviet glass was super cheap. are considered to be the best removable adapters ($90). Would I be crazy to say I kinda prefer my 85mm f2.8 to my 85mm f1.4. I'm not that far from NYC, and head down every so often. Another trick is to heat them up with a blow dryer or even your house heater. Thank you! On my set some were MMJ, others AEG. My favorite lens switched to the 85/1.4 after that, though. Since the filter threads across the set are wildly different (from 55 to 72mm), standardizing the filter threads to 77mm allows you to own one single set of filters which can quickly switch lenses without the need for tons of step rings. My 21mm CP.2 is probably my favourite lens that I own, lovely, lovely piece of glass. Really. Because the Contax lenses are noticeably more low-con than even Leica Rs their contemporaries, you will notice more latitude in your image. The rubber grip on the focus ring of the lenses is awesome because it prevents the gears from sliding, but its also a pain because it makes the fitting a lot harder. i want contax set for ef mount how can i buy? I paid around $250.00 for my 35-70/3.4 and around $800.00 for my 21/2.8 both in mint condition! Or do what I did and find an affordable Standard Prime 16mm T2. Originally launched in 1932 as a rangefinder system to compete with - you guessed it. Then, near the end of last year I decided to round out the set and make it suitable for renting. That was probably one of the most stressful experiences of my life with lenses. Caps & gears cool. Also, Super Speeds are a 1.2/1.4 at 18mm and 25mm. Anyone have/had one? Distance between first and last lens vertex: 33.6 mm 51.8 mm Weight: approx. 77mm front. It all started when I stumbled upon a post on Craigslist from a guy selling his Contax Zeiss set. All Time Today Last Week Last Month. I have used the Nikon 85 1.4, Sony Carl Zeiss 85 and 135, Mino 85, Sigma 85, Canon 85 1.2 for reference. The AE's are no longer serviced by Zeiss, keep that in mind. Fuck!). To fit the barrel of the lens, use a caliper and be precise about it. Building this set was a great experience throughout. Theyre fully manual focus and aperture -, have solid metal construction, long focus throw, and a great feel overall. So this reasoning is pretty bullet proof. MM's from 1984 to 2005. The first one is AE and the second one is MM. The Contax dont look vintage to me, but they also dont look modern. Collapse. The Standards were w/out a doubt the sharpest wide open. I know organic is a hackneyed term, but it fits. They get quite slow in the wides (the 18 is an F4, the 15 a 3.5). B&Hs 9 rating is mint and superb, as is EX+ at Adorama. Distagon, Planar, Sonnar, Tessar, Biogon and Hologon. Luckily for me, out of the five lenses I only messed up really bad on one (the 85mm, which was also the first one I tried). If you're reeeaaaally on a budget and don't mind a very low contrast look, Zeiss Jena's are a guilty pleasure of mine. Heres the full line of glass. We look into whether it offers more than your smartphone. That meant getting a few more lenses and upgrading various aspects I had neglected so far. The stills guys LOVE IT. Heres the answer to all of this, broken down. Contax Zeiss 60mm f/2.8 Macro AEG: Infinity focus on the left, minimum focus on the right. Yes, its one step slower than the its siblings, but it definitely crushes them with razor sharp focus and a beautiful transition into bokeh. Canon FD's are the predecessors to Canon L glass, and have a superb pedigree. If I have a motor on the iris, itll have to be adjusted every time the lens is swapped. https://www.reduser.net/forum/shooting-red/lens-tests/94346-contax-zeiss-survival-guide. I also added the f-stop for each lens and its minimum focus in meters and feet. Collapse. Nick P. - lenses like your 35/2.8 and 50/1.4 with the last (largest) number on the aperture ring in green are MM lensessince made in Japan, they are called MMJs. 1. I got all my standard 80mm fronts from him, as well as slip-on lens caps. Super Speeds and Standards for cinema. Last point on the focus gears: the same way you always want to have a constant outside diameter, you want to place them on the lenses at the same distance from the mount. Contax Zeiss 60mm f/2.8 Macro AEG: Infinity focus on the left, minimum focus on the right I know I stopped mentioning how sharp these lenses are, but the 60mm is worth highlighting. I had a feeling Nick was up to making a guide like this. That's what I'm thinking, though no official sources have been cited on the tests, it may have been pulled from articles or done independently, not sure. Be patient, use heat and sandpaper, and youll get there. When designing your focus gears, keep the number of teeth constant for all the lenses. It was the most expensive lens in the set and it shares a lot of the beautiful look of the 28/2 Hollywood. Lastly, just for curiositys sake, Carl Zeiss has a specific nomenclature for his lens designs and you can see some of them written on the ID ring of these Contax Zeiss lenses. I was not impressed, so I decided to make my own. Zeiss AE lens information I found a link to this awesome Zeiss Contax lens brochure, dated October 1975 (12 MB). check out the. Though I have to say, until you put in a lens review on each lens, I think you will continue to be fairly regularly PM'd :)) Though I'm sure that info is pretty well covered actually if you read through your post history :), Phil Holland - Cinematographer - Los Angeles. The planar 35mm F/1.4, 50mm T1.4 and 85mm F/1.4, are among some of them. For a little over a year, this was enough. This is a guide for people that love handling gear and tweaking little things here and there. I'm sure its just due to copy variation and the years its weathered but pretty disappointing. Look for an MM with serials in the 8's. If you want something ready to use from the get-go, Id say this is not for you. I went for the fastest lenses and snuffed out the AEGs I had, in favor of the prettier bokeh of the MMJs. To fix that I took the stickers off, added a thin layer of glue, put the stickers back in place and let it all dry overnight. All times are GMT-8. Wide open the 1.4 is great, but the focusing ring just feels very clunky on my copy. I went for the fastest lenses and snuffed out the AEGs I had, in favor of the prettier bokeh of the MMJs. I own (or have owned) an AE 25 2.8, 28 f2, 28 2.8, 35 1.4, 45 2.8, 50 1.4, 50 1.7, 60 2.8, 85 1.4, 85 2.8, 135 f2, 135 2.8, and 200 3.5and ALL OF THEM have the Ninja-Star. Also almost twice as big and heavy as the previous one. Its been there for quite a while and I have checked up on it countless times to help me make decisions. It also has built-in color filters which I freaked out when I realized how to turn them. Anyone who says a lens made in Germany is better than the same lens made in Japan is full of shit. Whats the best camera for around $2000? One thing I want to mention here is that I have found the new 50/1.4 ZE and ZF's to be MUCH softer wide open than my Contax 50/1.4. Not saying the 135/2 isnt worth it the investment, its just much heavier and harder to carry as a walk-around lens. @ Yean: Same here, my Contaxes shift very little if at all, especially when compared to any modern electronic lens. Still on the DIY train, a friend and I had just bought a 3d-printer, so I started making my own focus gears. As stated repeatedly, like ZF/ZEs, Contax lenses have great cinema mechanics. Wide open these are more likely to deliver a strong image that is consistent up and down the aperture. Does not come with any adapter. Lucky for me my 50 and 85/1.4 were already MMJ. Then, near the end of last year I decided to round out the set and make it suitable for renting. It's a weird, over-the-top kind of effect, but when you need it (as I did a few weeks ago) it's actually pretty helpful. For a while I didnt understand the need for 80mm fronts, so Ill share what I learned so others wont live too long unknowing like me! This will ensure a constant outside diameter, which means you dont have to adjust your follow focus every time you change lenses. To summarize, yeahthey look remarkably similar. To me, Contax are a GREAT way to affordably get a very real cinematic look from a golden age in Zeiss optics. Just to be clear (think you left that part out, haha). - Contax was created by Zeiss subsidiary Zeiss Ikon. The original CONTAX RTS was introduced in ,highly advanced electronic SLR system camera developed by mutual cooperation of Carl Zeiss, West Germany, and Yashica, Japan. I reached out to David at Hardcases.ca and got both a Nanuk 918 with padded dividers and a Nanuk 904 with foam to fit these babies. The 135mm f/2.8 was a great lens. Next up was the 35mm, two stops faster at f/1.4. This was a game changer. Whereas Contax is an F4 at 18mm, and 2.8 at 25mm. Now Im gonna move into streamlining it for shooting and making it the best possible lenses to handle on set. What IS the Ninja-Star? . We've selected a group of cameras that are easy to keep with you, and that can adapt to take photos wherever and whenever something memorable happens. The Minolta MC 2/28 is the oldest and fastest of the bunch, it was introduced in 1975. Its also quite similar to the modern 15/2.8 ZF/ZE offered by Zeiss, just a 2/3 stops slower. The screws on the back of the lenses are tiny, and if you strip them, you cant get the new mount into place. I would take Contax Zeiss over Canon "Cine Primes," Zeiss Compact Primes, or the new "Superspeeds" any day. I then redesigned and printed new focus gears for these and ordered more Leitax mounts and that was good for another five months. The bokeh behaves differently than with Sonnars and Planars and I find these can give the image an interesting look. Under enormous pressure from the West, Eastern Zeiss eventually relinquished the naming rights to CONTAX to Western Zeiss. Conveniently for me as I was finishing the set, SIMMOD Lens came into the picture, with very competitive prices, impressive customer service and super high-quality products. I almost went for the wrong one with my MM obsession, but I was warned by my followers on Instagram about the edge the AE had over the MM. Heres a little short-hand: ". Are often more traditional designs. This one was only made in Japan and it doesnt exist in AE, just MM. I almost went for the wrong one with my MM obsession, but I was warned by my followers on Instagram about the edge the AE had over the MM. We're Noct messing around with this review. Certainly sharper than both its larger brothers, the 100 planar and 100 Macro. These babies were bleeding me dry. Another trick is to heat them up with a blow dryer or even your house heater. From the Contax Survival Guide: 100 3.5 - Like the 85 Sonnar, but slower and possibly even sharper. These babies were bleeding me dry. This is another trick to make lens swaps faster, since you wont need to adjust your follow focus back and forth on the rig. Wide open it's one of the sharpest F2.0 wide angle lenses available and it has very little distortion.
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